Also helpful was a paper I found by Daniel Fua, who I think may be in Spain. He has acquired significant experience and expertise in modifying the old Neco to accept direction from contemporary autopilot computers. He is also generous about sharing what he has learned. Finally, I had a pleasant and enlightening conversation with Wil Hamm of WH Autopilots. As many who have dealt with him will testify, he is extremely helpful and generous with his time. He also makes what is probably the most reliable autopilot available. Equally important, he has been around long enough to be very familiar with the old style controllers such as the one in the Neco. He strongly advocated junking the old relay-driven controller because they are troublesome, even if it still works. He indicated that his controller could drive the Neco motor, although I was uncertain that I could figure out how to connect the two. Wil indicated that the motor would have either two or four leads, but the circuit diagram I had seemed to show six. It took about an hour of very intense and meticulous analysis of the diagram for me to unravel the situation. For all the electrical engineers reading this, the motor has a shunt coil and another coil in series with the armature rather than permanent magnets. While it appears at first glance in the diagram that the armature and series coil each have their own circuit, careful tracing of the whole circuit revealed that they are indeed in series on the same circuit. Since I am an electronics ignoramus, it took me quite a while to figure that out. What it means for us lay persons, is that the motor in effect has four leads, not six, and what Wil said made sense. However, the issue is complicated by the need to reverse the current flow in the coils while maintaining a consistent direction in armature. I still haven't figured out how this is done. Maybe Wil Hamm knows....
I also managed to stop at REI to pick up a roll-up camping table that I thought might be handy to set up as a cockpit table and on the aft deck in the right conditions. It was a lot cheaper than anything that says "marine" on it and stows very compactly.







Next I made a paper pattern for cutting out new plywood pieces to replace the rotten sections I had removed from the doghouse side panel last week.
I then made a pattern for the forward part of the doghouse ceiling. This section would be used for mounting instruments, so I also had to measure the spaces where I would need to glass in backing panels thick enough for securely mounting them. I used the 1-inch thin plywood strips I had cut during the week. They are easily snapped to length and assembled using hot melt glue, so it didn't take long. The front curve was gentle enough that the long strip bent right around it, and I didn't need to mark multiple points with the short pointed pieces I had made.




Perhaps during the week, after a bit more head-scratching, I'll try testing the motor again. Next weekend I'll be taking a little mini-holiday to visit Carol. :)
























Unfortunately, I had to work hard to make the progress I wanted. I spent almost two hours repeatedly test fitting the new port and carefully grinding the cutout until the port fit properly. Lifting and manipulating a 25lb port and 8lb grinder over your head dozens of times gets tiring, let me tell ya! By the end of the day I had just enough energy left to mix and apply some epoxy to seal the edges of the plywood liner in the opening. I also filled the cracks and gaps around the edge with epoxy putty.
Sunday I lightly sanded the cured epoxy and drilled the mounting bolt holes for the port. Using a countersinking bit, I made a little bevel around the holes on the outside. That was for a little 'donut' of butyl that would be compressed under a washer to form a good seal around the bolt. Next was putting the butyl tape around the port's mounting flange and securing the port in place with 1/4 inch bronze bolts, nuts and washers. With these larger bolts, pre-compressing the butyl with clamps wasn't necessary. Repeatedly tightening down the bolts worked fine, and the butyl squeezed nicely into all the gaps. The butyl slowly continued to ooz for a couple of hours, so I worked on other projects for a while and came back and snugged things down a bit more. 

All that went well enough that I also had time to remove the old aft head. I wanted to get that done so that I could take it to the Encinal Yacht Club marine swap meet next weekend and try to sell it (cheap). Rather than go to the trouble of installing a new head and all the required plumbing, I plan on simply mounting a portapottie. They're good for landlubber guests because they are easy to use and impossible to plug up, they're also quiet, and a good back-up for the main head.

I also managed to wrap the steering wheel with 3/16 inch nylon cord. It makes a much bigger difference in look and feel than is apparent in the photos.













