Glassing in a fiberglass backing board to dam the flow and some weatherstripping around the perimenter should cure the leak.
After the first post-repair rain or washdown, I’ll know for sure.The challenge with cutting the fiberglass boards was making relatively straight boards out of a curved and irregularly cut hunk of fiberglass. To make a straight edge from which I could make parallel cuts on the table saw, I first made a cut with the circular saw guided by a straight piece of angle steel. I improvised a vacuum connection to suck up most of the nasty fiberglass dust. Once that base line was established, I made the remaining cuts on the table saw that has its own vacuum system. Of course I wore a mask anyway.

Saturday was a beautiful day that I spent mostly doing errands, but I also managed to pick up some parts and supplies for the work I would be doing on Circadian. I got new hose and the service kit for rebuilding the Gusher 8 bilge pump, self-mixing six10 epoxy for installing the fiberglass strips I had made, and anodized aluminum angle and 3/8 inch plexiglass for rebuilding the teak hatches with a better design.
Saturday evening I sanded and put another coat of varnish on one of the head locker doors and serviced a leaking and ineffective bilge pump. That all went fine, with no problems more serious than a cut thumb. 


I expected Sunday to be just as nice as Saturday, and was disappointed when I encountered dense fog on the drive out to the Delta. I could only hope that it burned off soon enough to allow surfaces to dry and epoxy to cure. 
In the meantime, I marked and cut the fiberglass strips for fixing each of the four cockpit lockers and cleared out the aft head by loading all the left over paint, compounds and solvents into the truck. I would need more clamps to hold the fiberglass boards in place while the epoxy cured, and since it was still foggy, I decided I might as well go into town and buy them as well as pick up some lunch.

By the time I got back, the fog had burned off so I could use the epoxy to glue the boards in place. It took a bit of time to set up the clamps and boards to hold them in place, but it all went fine. It was still a bit cool, so I pre-heated the tube of six/10 epoxy and set up the heater and heat lamp to warm the locker area. I hadn’t tried the new six/10 system yet, so I wanted to see how it worked. It’s thickened two-part epoxy that comes in a conventional caulking tube and self-mixes in the nozzle as it comes out. 
It worked very neatly. Unfortunately, it hadn’t cured by the time I had to leave (despite the specified pot life of 42 minutes and supposedly curing at temperatures as low as 50 degrees F), so I had to cover everything in protective plastic. Hopefully it will be fully cured by my next visit. We’ll see….
While I was waiting for the epoxy to cure, I went to work on the doghouse skylight that still had a small leak despite my rebuilding it earlier. I had concluded that when it was bolted down to the curved top of the doghouse, the bending broke the seal between the frame and the plexiglass window. Sanding the joint between the frame and the plexiglass confirmed that there were some new gaps. After cleaning the joint, I masked the frame and plexiglass in preparation for sealing with 3M 4000 UV.
I applied the sealant and smoothed the joint with my usual tools: an index finger and thumb covered with a tight latex glove. Makes for a smooth surface and forces the sealant into the joint.
After letting the sealant partially cure, I removed the tape leaving a clean line. Since I had opened the tube of sealant, I decided to apply a redundant seal around the new ABI port I had intalled previously. It was kind of “quick and dirty” and not the best job I’ve done, but it will do until the time comes when I sand the cabin in preparation for painting. 
After cleaning up the inevitable caulking mess, I removed the two teak hatches for modification and rebuilding back in the shop and fashioned temporary hatch covers with boards and plastic sheeting. Because the epoxy for the leaky locker fix still hadn’t cured, I covered the locker openings with plastic sheeting. I loaded up some tools, cleaned up, buttoned up, did a final check and drove off into the sunset. I had accomplished everything on the day's task list, so it had been a good day.

After setting the skylight in place, I started working my way around the mounting flange from the center of each side in turn to the corners. I quickly discovered that each of the original stainless steel machine screws I was re-using had been cut off to be flush with the nuts on the underside of the doghouse roof. That resulted in each of them being a slightly different length. That resulted in some being a bit short in the place I was using them. Soooo....I had to grind off some washers that had been epoxied to the underside of the doghouse roof and get a few more longer machine screws. Of course I also broke a drill bit somehow, so had to get a replacement. SNAFUs aside, the routine was to drill a new hole one at a time, apply a bit of Lifecaulk around the top of the machine screw, screw it into the hole, climb down and screw on the nut from below. When I was lucky, I could snug up the nut; when I wasn't, the screw spun. The climbing up and down routine was repeated at least once for each of the 36 machine screws. I finally had to ask someone else to interrupt their work on their own boat to help me out by tightening the nuts from below while I held the screws in place from above. With the skylight finally secured, I just needed to trim the butyl tape and clean up the excess Lifecaulk, resulting in a pretty neat installation.


That night I fabricated the new bracket and reassembled the skylight with new plexiglass (smoked instead of clear) bedded in marine silicone sealant. The plexiglass is not fastened to the frame, but rather ‘floats’ within the assembled frame in a bed of sealant. The aluminum framework, in turn, is screwed onto a fiberglass flange on the doghouse roof. Below the frame on the underside of the doghouse roof is a teak trim surround.
Trial fits on the boat on Sunday confirmed my suspicions. It took quite a bit of grinding away of old sealant and some fiberglass to get the assembly to fit in place.
Even then, it was obvious some of the bolt holes did not line up any longer and will need to be redrilled. I was out of sanding disks to finish the trimming, and there wasn’t time left to start on the big task of rebedding and re-bolting the skylight in place. Instead, I sanded the teak trim around the opening and put a coat of epoxy on it. 
