April 26, 2010

During the week I finished repairing and filling the gaps between layers in the laminate around the lip of the engine room hatch. That greatly strengthened the structure, but the lip was still wavy. I was getting burned out, and the thought of hours of filling and sanding to fair the hatch edges was more than I could bear. I finally came up with a way to avoid it: Let gravity do the work! The plan was to set the hatch vertically on one edge, create a little dam around the top edge with masking tape, and pour in liquid resin thickened with just enough filler to keep it from seeping under the tape. The theory was that it would self-level. It actually worked, resulting in a perfectly straight edge that will require minimum sanding to fair it! I was able to get two sides done before I ran out of filler.
Saturday morning I was up at 4 am to get to another marine swapmeet in Sausalito. I had to stop at Napa on the way to off-load the anchors and chain I wanted to add to the sales inventory I had previously loaded into the truck from home during the week. I arrived in Napa before sun-up and was treated to a lovely sunrise. My good luck continued.... While digging around the bottom of Circadian's chain locker I discovered a ratcheting windlass handle, much to my delight. The reason for my excitement was that I needed one to operate the new windlass manually in case of electrical failure and they haven't been made in decades. They are extremely rare as a consequence. After repeatedly checking ebay, I finally found only one, and they wanted $140 for it!I also found some spare rigging fittings, among which were exactly the right pieces to replace the ones that had been lost in shipment! They were used, but appeared to be fine. It was only 7 am and I was already a happy boy!


I arrived at the swapmeet about 8:45 and there was already a good crowd. My good luck continued: right across from my spot were the guys from the Beta Marine dealer (They're with the yellow truck in the photo.), so I could conveniently walk over and get the supplies I needed to change the oil, filters, impeller, etc. on Circadian's' 50 hp Beta diesel.


I also was able to get a very large stainless steel shackle that I'd been having trouble finding from the guy next to me. He's one of two professional swapmeeters I see at every swap meet. His prices are high and he's a real bull shitter who'll say almost anything to make a sale. But, any port in a storm, as they say. While the shackle was no bargain, it was a reasonable price. I sold a few items, mostly minor, and as usual, what you do sell is not what you expected would go. By 11:30 the crowd was starting to thin, and I figured I had sold everything I was going to sell. I packed up, grabbed a sandwich from the concession benefiting the Spaulding Boat Works and then walked across the street to have a quick look at the shop at Spaulding. It's rarely open to the public, so I took advantage of the opportunity. They are a non-profit that is keeping wooden boat building alive through a school and the restoration of classic wooden boats. Lin and Larry Pardey donated the wooden molds for all the custom bronze castings for Taliesin to them.
I had a long drive ahead of me, I'd been up since oh-dark-thirty and still had to unload and put away a truck load of gear at home, so I hit the road about 1:30. I was home by late afternoon. I unloaded the truck, had something to eat and made an early night of it.


Getting up just before six on Sunday seemed like sleeping in after having been up so early the day before. I was off to Napa again to get the windlass installed and if there was time, use my newly-discovered rigging fittings to finish staying the mast.


While I didn't make the sunrise this time, it was a beautiful warm day in Napa. Installing the windlass turned out to be tricky and difficult. There were six bolts that secured the windlass, three of which came up from below and were shorter than the other three because they screwed into custom T fittings that secured the chain remover and the swiveling hawse pipe cover. Their length had to be just right because they could only go so far into these T fittings and they needed to be tight. I knew I had to 'dry fit' everything first to work out the bugs before final assembly with the sealant. Five of the six bolts could be persuaded to fit; but not the sixth. I also noticed that the bottom plate of the windlass was not lying flat on the base, but tilted at a slight angle. These problems were especially irritating because I had been careful to trial fit the windlass to the new platform before bonding it onto the deck. Once mounted on deck, however, with everything now having to go through 4 inches of solid material, it didn't take much of an angular error in the holes to cause significant misalignments. It took a couple of hours of trial and error, re-drilling bolt holes and the 2-inch motor shaft hole, to get everything to fit properly. I also had to fine tune the bolt lengths with washers from below. I carefully marked each bolt with its location, orientation, and number of washers in preparation for final assembly. I was hot and tired, so I decided to break for lunch before tackling the final assembly. I had brought a Trader Joe's salad and a beer, so it would be a short break.


All my previous travails and precautions paid off as the final assembly, while messy with caulking everywhere, came off without a problem. I cleaned the caulking from the windlass and myself with rags and paint thinner (which I discovered in an aft locker-MORE LUCK!), and went below to mount the motor and finish the wiring.

Mounting the motor was tricky and painful. It required the simultaneous alignment of keys to slots in the motor shaft and three set screws on the motor with three dimples in the motorshaft housing. Doing all this required getting both the horizontal rotation and vertical alignment precisely correct simultaneously by holding and maneuvering the 30-lb motor overhead while doing contortions in the narrow end of the v-berth. I finally got it done, but I was hurting! By comparison, the remaining wiring was pretty straightforward, with one exception. The cable terminals on the motor did not have their polarity labelled. The installation instructions covered this oversight by explaining that if the motor ran but the windlass did not turn, the polarity was wrong and the cables needed to be switched. With my chances being 50-50, of course I had to switch the cables. But that did the trick. The new windlass was fully operationa!By the time I had the wiring secured, it was getting late in the afternoon and, because something in that salad apparently disagreed with me, I was feeling drained in more ways than one. I test fit the hardwood hawse pipe and marked a few places where I needed to saw some more cutouts. Finally, I cleaned up the worst of the mess, buttoned up and headed home. I was exhausted, but happy to have achieved a major milestone. I also found a second ratcheting winch handle while doing the installation. More good luck! It was definitely time to buy a lottery ticket!

April 19, 2010

During the week I came up with an idea for trimming the lip around engine hatch cover that seemed pretty simple: mount a piece of wood onto my circular saw to function as a guide, and run it around the hatch. It actually worked, and I was able to trim the lip and pull the new hatch cover off the mold with no problems.

Saturday I cut a piece out of the hardwood hawse pipe to allow clearance for the windlass motor. I'll have to check it when the motor is installed and adjust as necessary. Sunday I went out to Napa with the goals of getting the engine running for a while, cleaning up the batteries, working on the frozen seacocks some more and installing an inline fuse in the supply wire to the windlass switch.

Marine diesels die not from wearing out, but from rusting out due to lack of use. The engines in fishing boats that run 24 hours a day almost 7 days a week will go 10,000 hours without an overhaul. Since the engine in Circadian hadn't been run since December, it was definitely time.
To run it while she was 6 feet above the ground required getting cooling water to the raw water intake, but not under pressure which can cause damage. So, I brought a large bucket into which I inserted a garden hose supplying water and the engine's raw water intake hose which I managed to disconnect from the seacock without too much trouble. I had equipped the end of the garden hose with a shut off valve so I could control the volume of water in the bucket from the engine room. I filled the bucket and then tried starting the engine. It started right up, ran perfectly for a few seconds and then quit. This pattern was repeated several times. Had to be a fuel problem. I went through the bleeding procedure; no change in results. Finally I noticed that the shut-off valve below the auxiliary fuel filter was closed. Duh! Ran perfectly once that was opened. Ran it for about 15 minutes to warm it up and get everything lubed. I decided a running engine was a milestone worthy of a nice lunch at Cuttings Wharf, so after cleaning up I headed over there.


After lunch, I started wrestling with the frozen cockpit drain seacocks again. Last week I was able to spray some PB Blaster into one through the drain plug fitting. It did the trick and I was able to move the handle and open and close the valve. Yeah!!! The other one was hard to get to behind the generator, and of course the plug was frozen tight. After about a half an hour of painful contortions and considerable loss of flesh from about the knuckles, I gave up on trying to remove the plug. Instead, I sprayed a lot of PB Blaster right down the cockpit drain. Hopefully enough will find its way down to and around the ball valve that it will free it up. I'll find out in a week or so.


I poured some baking soda onto the corroded battery terminals, sprayed a bit of water on it, and went to work on the fuse. I had to do it twice thanks to the crappy quality of the fuse holder I got at Worst Marine. The yard chandlery had a better one which I got installed without a problem. Some more cleaning up, and I called it a day.

April 12, 2010

I was up at 4:30 am Saturday to make a pilgrimmage to Alameda to do some bargain-hunting at the Encinal Yacht Club's annual marine swapmeet. By 7 am I had made my only scores: two big orange round buoy/fenders and one conventional fender the same as the other three on Circadian, but new.I thought I might have been really lucky and found some stainless chimney pipe for the Dickinson stove I bought on ebay, but it was the wrong size. I did get a good book for Carol, "Tips From Women Onboard." Lots of good ideas and infomation, much of which wouldn't occur to men. By 8:15 I was sure that I had seen it all, and headed over to Emeryville where there was to be another swap meet at 9 am. It turned out no one showed up, so I had a nice breakfast at the Can't Fail Cafe and hit the road.

I arrived in Napa by 11, and hoped to get the windlass installed and running. Alas, it was not to be. It turned out I had failed to allow for the thickness of the windlass's rubber gasket and mounting plate when determining the length of bolts I needed. Damn! The bolts were half an inch shy! I'll now have to go online again and order what I hope will be the right size. Measure twice, buy once! Since I couldn't complete the mounting of the windlass, I finished the windlass wiring (except the final connections to the windlass motor and the battery) and secured and tidied up the rest of the wiring in the engine room.


Next, I tackled the big aft lazarette. I straightened out all the lines that had been hastily tossed there in South Carolina, dug out the shore power cord and water hoses, and generally cleaned up. I used an old and leaky Guzzler bilge pump to pump out two inches of water in the bottom and salvaged a thick piece of hardwood that had been soaking in water and diesel fuel for who knows how long. I offloaded one of the two totally inadequate 33lb Bruce anchors on Circadian so I could bring it home and add it to my "swap meet" sales inventory. I like to sleep, so when it comes to anchors I like the biggest I can handle and the best I can find. I bought a new Rocna 55 pounder for Circadian, which should be good for anything less than a hurricane...and maybe even that! The picture tells it all.... I just hope it fits on the bow roller! By 4 pm I was done in more ways than one and headed home.

During the week I had drilled holes in the bubbles in the heavy roving on top of the new engine compartment hatch cover and successfully filled the gaps by injecting resin. So I spent Sunday adding two more layers of fiberglass cloth and resin and then applying a tan textured final coat of surfacing resin. While I waited for the various layers to cure, I did laundry, polished brass oil lamps, cleaned up the recently arrived old Dickinson cabin heater, and drank excessive quantities of Cabernet.

April 3, 2010

During the week I got supplies and cut lumber to start fabricating a new hatch cover for the engine compartment which would also be the cockpit sole. When I bought Circadian, the 4-foot long "hatch" consisted of a hinged sheet of plywood covered in carpet. It leaked in the rain, didn't do much to contain engine noise and wasn't secure. I had the lumber yard cut a new plywood core to size on their panel saw to ensure a straight and square cut. I laminated a layer of heavy glass roving to what would become the underside of the hatch. After the resin cured, I ground off the excess around the edges and rounded the edges of the top side with the router.

On Saturday morning I assembled a simple male mold from mdf boards and set it up on the patio.Next, I stapled strips of fiberglass I had previously fabricated to the edges of the plywood. These would be the base for subsequent layers of glass that would form the two-inch lip around the hatch. I laid the heavy roving over the plywood, mixed up a batch of laminating resin and squeegeed it on. It turned out that using the heavy roving for the first layer was a mistake. It was too stiff to make the 90 degree bend over the edges even though the corners had been rounded off. I had hoped that when the resin got to the tacky stage it would stick enough to hold the roving in place. No such luck. I ended up pressing the roving against the lip using boards covered in polyethylene, but that simply resulted in pushing the roving away from the top of the plywood around the edges. I'll try remedying that by injecting resin into the gaps. If that doesn't work, I'll have to grind off the unadhered roving and use additional layers of the more flexible cloth to compensate.

On Sunday, I headed out to Napa to complete sanding, fairing and priming the new windlass mount and work on the windlass wiring. While it was within the realm of possibility that I could have the new windlass mounted and tested, it was not to be. The weather forecast called for rain, and the threatening clouds confirmed a wet outlook. Because it was Easter Sunday, the chandlery was closed, so I couldn't get coffee or supplies. It was going to be a tough day!


I adjusted my aspirations to the circumstances and just hoped to get the windlass mount primed soon enough to allow it an hour to dry before the rain came. The rest of the day I could work inside the cabin on the wiring.


I got the windlass mount painted and covered in plastic just in time. Then I went below to work out of the wind and rain. Running the heavy double-ought cable the full length of the cabin required drilling pairs of one-inch holes through bulkheads and partitions in lockers of various configurations and sizes, all of which forced me into contortions and made it impossible to get good leverage on the drill. It turns out that fiberglass that has had 35 years to cure gets pretty hard, too! Even getting the cable through the holes and lockers required a lot of awkward muscling.


I eventually managed to get the job done, though, and completed everything that could be done without mounting the windlass and motor, including the footswitch, solenoid, and manual safety switch. I still had to mount the big fuse in the engine compartment and eventually connect the cable to the batteries, but I didn't want to do that in the rain, since the engine compartment leaked. That should be pretty straightforward, though, and it would be much easier to do with the cover open and more light on nicer day.