Tenacatita

I arrived at Tenacatita about four in the afternoon on March third. Bahia Tenacatita is also a large bay with room for many boats to anchor. The most sheltered spot in the northwest corner had only two boats in it when I arrived, so I anchored between them with plenty of room. The big amusement in the anchorage was the regular visits from dolphins that came morning and evening to scratch themselves on Circadian's anchor chain. The big adventure was taking the dinghy ashore and then up the Estero Verde estuary to the lagoon that ends 2 ½ miles later near Playa Tenacatita. In fact, the estuary trip turned out to be a bit more of an adventure than I would have liked. The dinghy ride over the bar wasn't so bad, and the speeding pangas in the narrow jungle channel didn't freak me out too much. The problem arose when the outboards prop hit an underwater root and stopped the engine. When I tilted the motor up to see what might have fouled it, I saw nothing. But the prop was unmovable, which was why the engine would not run in gear. My fear was that the shear pin didn't do its job and something in the internal gearing was broken. I didn't think I was more than half a mile from the lagoon and beach restaurants at the end, so rowing the rest of the way until I was somewhere were I could exam the engine and prop better was not a big deal. Unfortunately rowing proved impossible in the narrow channel overgrown with mangroves. There simply wasn't room to use the oars without them getting stuck in roots or branches. I tried pulling the boat along by grabbing onto the branches and roots, but that didn't work worth a damn either. Finally I tried standing up and using an oar like paddle. While the dinghy made a lousy SUP, I was able to make progress, albeit slowly. I hoped to see the lagoon around every corner, but it was always “the next one.” I wanted to quit, but going back was a very long way. I worried how I would get back if I couldn't free the prop or find a panga to give me a tow at least to a place where I could row. After half an eternity I heard surf breaking on the beach, so I knew I had to be close. Finally I saw the lagoon ahead. As always, the last twenty feet were the hardest. Because the lagoon was open, the wind funneled right into the estuary channel making it very hard to paddle out against the wind far enough away from the mangroves to be able to use the oars before getting blown back into them. After a few tries, I finally did it. I was never happier to make a landing than I was there in that lagoon. With the boat beached, I used an oar as a lever and carefully tried counter-rotating the prop. It broke free and a small piece of root dropped out. That was what had caused the jam. But it wasn't visible while the prop was jammed. What a relief when the engine restarted and turned the prop normally!

I was ready for my reward: lunch on the beach. I walked a short distance to the beach where I found a couple sitting at a table under a tarp with a phone and restaurant menu. The only buildings around looked abandoned. However, tables were set up on the sand under colorful umbrellas. Yes, I could take a table and order lunch and drinks. I ordered the famous rollo de mar, which is fish wrapped with shrimp or squid and bacon, covered in a rich creamy sauce. I also had a beer AND a mineral water, since I knew I was dehydrated from working so hard in the heat and humidity. The hot meal and drinks on ice were brought by car from a kitchen that was a kilometer and a half away. I was stuffed and happy an hour later.
(About a week later I got the story about what happened with Playa Tinacatita and why all the buildings are neglected and/or abandoned.  It seems someone with connections wanted to build a big, exclusive hotel complex there and get rid of everyone else.  It turned out the land was tribally owned, which put a stop to it while the dispute played out in court.  In the meantime, this person was allowed to control access, thus preventing customers, workers or vendors from driving into the area.  Sad.)

The return trip down the estuary was uneventful, thankfully, and I was able to enjoy observing the wildlife more. Getting back out over the bar, however, was a bit exciting because the tide was down and the surf up. But I made it safely and really enjoyed a peaceful and lovely evening onboard in the anchorage.